A Designer’s Guide to Istanbul With Gem Alf

[Gem] Most tourists think

they understand Istanbul in two days.

It's not a city you understand quickly.

It's a city you orient yourself in.

Whoever comes here, they think they've been here before.

Like, everything is very familiar to everyone.

The constant shift, the tension of the city is

part of its DNA.

More than just rich history, the city is layered

and most importantly, those layers are still in use.

Hey AD.

I'm Gem Alf, curator and designer,

and right now we're standing in front of our gallery

here in Cukurcuma, which is considered

to be Istanbul's antiques and design district.

This is where we curate our collections

from all around the world.

Creations with one of the city's best artisans.

But before we go in, I need to go to workshop of my artisan,

bring him a few pieces that he's been waiting for,

and check our latest work.

And on the way, we will have a few more stops,

and I'll show you some hidden gems.

[mellow music plays]

Now we are at Rustem Pasha Mosque.

You might be wondering why we came here all of a sudden.

To be honest, it's on the way to the workshop,

and it's always meant something to me.

I'll tell you.

Built in the 1560s,

this mosque is one of the hidden gems of Istanbul.

From the outside, you wouldn't even notice it.

It's not as majestic as the other mosques in the city,

and that's the point.

I feel there is something intentional behind the design.

There are shops below, it's quite vibrant,

and somewhere above, the mosque blends

into its surroundings.

If you enter through this little gate,

we will reach to the courtyards.

One of the most refined examples of Ottoman architecture.

It was commissioned by Rustem Pasha,

the wealthy son in law of Suleiman the Magnificent,

the longest-reigning sultan of the Ottoman Empire.

At the time, iznik ethnic tiles were highly valued.

Their making was complex. Their colors were rare in nature.

Some of the finest craft of their time,

more valuable than gold.

Rustem Pasha wanted to show his richness.

The architect, Sinan, answered with simplicity,

but simplicity doesn't mean ordinary.

The richness is there, yet the space feels calm.

That was his genius.

All around the interior of the mosque, we see mistakes,

inconsistencies made intentionally.

It comes from a simple idea: perfection belongs to God.

The first time I heard this way of thinking,

I still remember the goosebumps.

It's a way of thinking that shapes how a person lives,

how they see aesthetics, even their design language

to express the most valuable craft

through a simple language without chasing perfection.

[Gem] We're finally at Buyuk Yeni Han,

the great new caravanserai.

Built for trading and this place dates back to 18th century.

Even after like 250 years, it's still the same.

On the ground floor, you'll find storage and shops,

and on the upper floors,

workshops and craftsmen at work.

Metal workers, silversmiths, mold makers.

[mellow music plays]

In Istanbul, craftsmanship carries centuries,

circles of knowledge from hand to hand,

from master to apprentice,

and it does not produce a single aesthetic.

Armenian, Greek, Levantine and Muslim craftsmen work

side by side.

In these ateliers, they handcraft

some very well-known trophies.

I probably shouldn't tell you which ones,

but imagine

like, some of the most important international trophies

in tennis and horse riding are made here.

I'll keep it confidential.

[mellow music continues]

Now, we're in the workshop.

We've been working with Duson on this custom piece called

the Circle of Sharing.

This piece is coming from Kakma technique.

It's hand-hammered craftsmanship,

and he's one of the few remaining masters.

He's very precious.

[hammer tapping metal]

[Gem] I will show you the finished one

in the gallery later on.

Today, we working on a new piece,

and I brought him the gemstones to inlay into the piece.

[mellow music plays]

We're here now at the Grand Bazaar.

A city within a city,

there are more than 20 entrances and over 4,000 shops.

The Grand Bazaar dates back to the 15th century,

commissioned by Sultan Mehmet II

shortly after the conquest of Constantinople.

At the time, his vision was clear:

to transform the city into a center of trade,

but the Grand Bazaar has another rhythm.

Soon enough, you'll begin to notice

the craft work all around you.

Metals, textiles, ceramics.

Some of the most skilled artisans still work here,

quietly behind the surface,

and that's the nature of the Grand Bazaar.

Chaotic, yes, but it's layered

and unexpectedly beautiful.

[mellow music continues]

We're finally back. Let me show you around the gallery.

Come on in.

Our work moves between collecting and creating.

We look for rare pieces, forgotten icons,

masterpieces from all around.

When it comes to collecting and creating,

I just don't force it.

It's an instinct. It's actually comes from Istanbul.

This city has never been just one thing,

and this gallery reflects that.

Do you remember this piece from the workshop?

It's a cini, a tray

from Middle Eastern and Anatolian traditions

later refined in Ottoman culture.

People gather around it, placing it at the center,

a surface where food, time and conversation are shared.

At its essence, everything affects the flow we live in,

like a stone in water, like planets in motion.

Even the smallest word, the slightest gesture can shift

the space around us.

The cini tray holds that idea.

Ottoman Leopard.

It's a figurative animal shaped within a Sufi lodge.

In the Ottoman world, figuration existed,

but rarely as a freestanding sculpture.

Animal forms like this were uncommon.

That's what makes it so rare.

Marked as Sena.

Sena means year, 1327 in hijri calendar.

There is also no name behind it.

Anonymity is part of the culture. The maker steps back.

The work remains.

Well, AD, it was great having you with me today.

I hope you enjoyed Istanbul from my perspective.

We just went a little bit out of script,

but after all, I'm not your typical tour guide.

I hope to see you around. Goodbye for now.