When most people think of Cappadocia, Turkey’s ancient cave city, rainbow-striped hot air balloons flitting across sandstone plains and tangerine-tinted sunrises often spring to mind. In many ways, this image is accurate; it is not long after arriving in the region that I find myself hurtling across the sky at 6 am, razor-sharp fairy chimneys and ridged cave formations jutting out below me. As I disembark from my whicker basket, however, I realise that many of the other tourists around me are headed off on their travels. Cappadocia is 735 kms away from Istanbul (approximately eight hours by car) so I was surprised when my guide explained that most visitors to the region only come for a pit stop visit.
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In reality, Cappadocia, which lies in the central Anatolian plateau of Turkey, has far more to offer than these quintessential hot air balloon rides. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985, the region's unique landscape is a result of complex geological processes that took millions of years to form. Around sixty million years ago, a series of volcanic eruptions blanketed the region with layers of ash, lava and debris. Eventually, these materials were compressed into a soft, porous rock called tuff, upon which a harder layer of basalt and andesite formed.
Wind and water erosion gradually sculpted the terrain, wearing away the softer tuff and producing dramatic sceneries. The iconic ‘fairy chimneys’ were covered in a harder basalt layer, ensuring protection to the underlying rock and creating mushroom-topped cones or tower-shaped formations. Rivers and streams also carved the valley, whilst the peaks of the volcanic Mount Erciyes, Mount Hasan, and Mount Melendez remained steadfast overhead. Today, visitors can best experience these otherworldly monuments at spots like Love Valley and Devrent Valley.
Humans soon got to work sculpting the geological formations, too. Easy to carve, the soft tuff was hollowed out to create vast underground cities. Today, visitors can head to Derinkuyu, an underground city 85 metres below the Earth’s surface. Incorporating eighteen levels of tunnels, the network includes dwellings, cattle stables, schools, wineries, and a chapel. Thousands of years old, the city was used by the Phrygians, Persians, and Christians of the Byzantine Era for shelter and defence.
During the Byzantine era, it also became customary to build rock-cut homes and churches into the local surroundings. Hollowed-out hillsides now define the region, semi-circular cutouts indicating dwellings hidden within towering rock formations. These are best explored by foot; visitors can hike to Göreme or through Ihlara Valley, which is home to around fifty Christian churches (including some of the most historic churches in the Arab world) and other ancient landmarks. The Crusader Church, which features detailed frescos and impressive acoustics, even occasionally hosts musical performances.
Many of these ancient cave dwellings have recently been repurposed for modern use. Over the past decade, it became popular to use abandoned caves to store produce. The constant underground temperature of around 13C made them ideal for keeping goods like cabbage, potatoes and pears until their prices increased in winter and spring. Local establishments and companies have even started to rent out abandoned caves on their property to make extra income.
The temperature of the caves also makes them ideal for storing wine, with both Turasan Winery and Argos in Cappadocia offering tours of their underground storage units. Be sure to opt for a tasting experience too; owing to the region's volcanic history and mineral-rich soils, the local wine is particularly spectacular, with a fresh and ‘salty’ profile.
Argos in Cappadocia have also transformed their historical cave rooms, which were once part of a former monastery and village, into luxurious lodgings; 71 rooms now spread across their 13,500 square metre plot, which conveniently occupies a steep hillside overlooking Pigeon Valley.
Restoration efforts started in 1996, with the cave rooms preserved to retain original features; exposed stone walls, Ottoman fireplaces, and wooden panelled ceilings define the interiors. Some more modern touches, including expansive marble bathrooms, private indoor pools and adjacent balconies have also been added.
“The tuff stone is incredibly soft, so we have to be meticulous when planning exactly how to expand and adapt the cave rooms, or else the structures will collapse,” director of engineer at Argos, Hakan Celik, tells me. “When working with this kind of stone, we also have to use traditional methods and hand-held metal tools. The works take years to complete.”
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The most recent addition, a luxury spa, took four years to build. Now, guests can receive massages in candle-lit cave rooms and traditional hammam treatments in a marble-adorned bathhouse. A refreshing infinity pool is perched along the edge of the property, offering star spangled views of Pigeon Valley and the nearby Mount Erciyes. For more adventurous visitors, the hotel’s lavender-infused gardens give way to a four-mile walking trail that leads to the historical town of Goreme.
Smaller boutique hotels have also jumped on the bandwagon with bespoke offerings. Celal Kaya, Via Regia Cappadocia’s hotel director, tells me that the property once consisted of a series of cave rooms resembling small carved containers. With limited ventilation and low ceilings, the air was stale and some rooms were partly blocked.
Entrepreneurs Erkan Adakoglu and Hasan Murat Avci managed to see the potential in the property, which has a prime position overlooking the iconic Uçhisar Castle and Peri Bacalari. Via Regia Cappadocia Hotel’s 11 cave rooms were renovated by the renowned architects of Bordo Mimarlik. The original caves were opened up and transformed, with additional structures also being built around these hollow spaces. In keeping with the architecture of the region, local stone and traditional details, such as arched doorways, were incorporated.
Inside the cave rooms themselves, exposed tuff rock walls are adorned with handmade rug art made from knotted wool and silk pile by local artist, Suat Kisab. Tucked away towards the back of the property, an underground dwelling has also been transformed into a restaurant, LUUK. Serving traditional Anatolian cuisine for visitors, the spot specialises in testi kebab, a regional speciality of tender lamb slow-cooked with carrots, celery, and potatoes in a clay pot or jug.
“It is amazing to see people coming together once more in these repurposed cave dwellings,” Celal Kaya tells me as we sip coffee on the property’s outdoor terraces. Overhead, visitors are trekking in and out of semi-circular openings lining the facade of the looming Uçhisar Castle. “It seems once again, Cappadocia’s landscape and hidden homes have been brought back to life.”
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