Out of all the beautiful hotels in Lisbon, Palácio Príncipe Real is the most exclusive: no visitors are allowed to arrive unannounced and guests must inform the concierge if they are expecting friends or family to pay a visit. And it all makes sense here: Not only do overnight guests get to enjoy a sanctuary of calm, this boutique hotel feels like your fabulous cousin's home.
A 19th century aristocratic mansion stands in the middle of Lisbon’s chic Principe Real district where elegantly old buildings, new restaurants and fun concept stores create the kind of buzz other historic quarters in Europe envy. And while much loved tourist attractions – think Igreja de São Roque, Praça do Comércio and the Botanical Garden – are close at hand, walking through the building’s carved wood doors is like stepping into an entirely different world.
Known by its blush pink walls, Palácio Príncipe Real is indeed a rare find. A true independent hotel in Lisbon that feels like a private sanctuary – and above all else, it still comes across as a family home: very often you will find its British owners, Miles and Gail Curley, milling around, making sure guests are comfortable, regaling them with stories about how they bought the mansion in 2015 and the rewarding, but arduous, renovation that ensued.
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The result is a charming blend of old and new, with the latest mod cons seamlessly hidden into the building, allowing its period features – from the first floor drawing room where original azulejo tiles (traditional Portuguese tiles in blue and white, hand-painted like frescoes before being fired) steal the show, to the grand staircase flanked by walls adorned by intricate white stucco work and hand-painted arabesque ceilings – to shine. Brass floor lamps, shaped like palm trees, multi-coloured glass lights suspended from the high ceilings and a black and white marble floor lend just the right amount of quirk.
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Unlike other grand hotels in Lisbon, Palácio Príncipe Real has kept things tight: it features 25 rooms, all generously proportioned and lovingly restored. One of the suites was once the family kitchen; its original azulejo tiles still line the walls from floor to ceiling. “For some sections, we had to go hunting for authentic tiles in the same designs so that we could bring the room back to its former glory,” explains Gail. “It was not always easy, but we persevered.”
Guests can also opt for what was the former family ballroom. Decked in local limestone, the bathrooms – fitted with underfloor heating and Drummonds roll-top baths – demonstrate not only the couple’s eye for design and contemporary taste (in many cases, the bath is incorporated into the main area of the suite) but also a commitment to preservation: none of the engineering that backs them up is visible.
If you’re looking for a break from sightseeing, a swim in the raised saltwater pool or a yoga class in the garden could be the perfect way to reset. The hotel’s holistic practices specialist offers a range of treatments, from lymphatic drainage to Reiki and sound baths; make sure to book in advance. A bar, in jewel tones and brass accents, a cellar stocked with the best of local produce, from grape to grain, and an intimate restaurant, supercharged by fresh, seasonal produce mean that if you want, there is no need to step out of Palácio Príncipe Real … And when you do, the best of Lisbon is at your doorstep.
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